Sweet Nothings Crochet: RACER BACK TOP

RACER BACK TOP

Racer backs are the new “IN” thing, and obviously, I must make one of these at least .. in my repertoire.. don’t you agree. Obviously you think so too.. so thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

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And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of Indian Red rose knitting cotton with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

The pattern is not my own. I have used the free pattern from DMC and this is the link.

https://wordpress.dmc-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Crochet-Camisole.pdf

My notes are only because of the difference in yarn and hook.

This pattern is worked from the bottom up.

I find that the stitch count for this pattern is in multiples of 22.

I have started with 220 stitches (per pattern) and I have a first round of 39”.

(Edited to add : I hope that using the stitch count repeat will work. Please do tell if you are adventurous enough to try, so that we can help others for whom the start of 220 does not work. Thanks)

By Round 8, after a few decreases (per pattern), I have a round of 33”

Round 10 seems to have a typo. We are working in sets of 9-sts each, so the repeats would need to be in sets of 9. Hence 2 sc in the next dc and dc in the next 9 dc will not work. I worked 2 sc in the next dc and then dc in the next 8 dc.

Round 12 again I think has a slight error.

In Round 11, we’ve got an 18-st set, so in Round 12, we should work in the 9^th and 18^th sts, I think.

So rather than ch 6, sk 9 (I sk 8 and worked in the 9^th st) ; and then I found that the next part worked (i.e ch 6, sk 8 and sl-st into the next st).

I guess if we marked the centre of each set and then worked in that, it would work too.

I am not sure if I did it all right, as I am not happy that the 2^nd set of triangles did not come in the centre, nor that the waves were properly aligned. I know though, that when worn, this may not show – but .. hmmm

Front (from waist to shoulders)

I worked the instructions per designer, using only the centre 81 sts. It did not work for me. The shape is really good but I felt that there was too much shoulder and chest that would show through.

I therefore ripped out and started again. This time around, I have put in a template for the front and am going to map this, keeping the pattern in mind…(something I should have done from the start! Live n learn HAH!). Basically I just re-attached my yarn further up the back and that way with the decreases it seemed to work better.

As I am starting wider off on the first row, I am changing the sc to hdc in the pattern for the front.

I also worked a dc 2-tog at the start and end of the dc row in between the 3 hdc (or sc) rows. I think that is a minor typo as well… and the designer has worked a decrease on both the dc row as well as the middle sc rows.

Border (around armhole) :

There is a border running around the armhole & straps all around. The pattern reads 6 dc shell border, but I couldn’t see an explanation for it. So here’s what I have done.

I first ran a round of ch-2 sps evenly around ensuring I had an even number of spaces around.

I worked 2 dc in the 1^st ch-2 sp and sc in the next sp. Work this sequence all around and join with a sl-st.

Border (around the bottom) :

There is a lovely shelled border that we work after we finish the top, and we work this in a round. I started with 220 (like the pattern said). Now the stitch repeat given her is in multiples of 3.. and 220/3 is not an even number.

So I worked the shell stitch every 5 sts which gives me an even end result.

Skipping 3 sts and working a shell in the 4^th st also gives an even number of shells, but I found that the shells were too close – so chose the 5^th st instead.

This is just a small thing – but if you want an even number of shells, please check that you get an even number when you divide the number of stitches you start with and the number of stitches you are skipping.

This means that if you work shell in one st, and sk 4, you will work one shell every 5 sts. So 5 is your stitch count. Got it?

In the final round of shells, I have opted to work 7 dc (as against 10 dc) in each ch-sp.. oh and I worked a ch-5 sp all around (as against a ch-7 sp).

I am thrilled that I got my first racer back done.. now to find a model to get this onto social media ;)

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html